2011年11月20日 星期日

Fortnum&Mason英國倫敦買茶記

趁著有放兩天假的空檔,跑到倫敦找朋友吃飯順便重溫倫敦好玩的地方,
在朋友的介紹下,進了這家茶店Fortnum&Mason,
之前就有聽說過,不過一直沒有機會喝他們家的茶。

位於倫敦的精華地段,picadilly circus上,顯眼的招牌和極寬敞近乎有兩家店的大小
一走進去像是來到華麗的英國高級商場,紅地毯和挑高維多利亞式的天花板,
茶店裡的服務人員每人都穿得非常正式,西裝外套襯衫和背心,
在倫敦逛街的確不只是物質上的享受,仔細觀察會發現很多貼心的小細節,
裡面不只有賣茶,還有賣糕點類,果醬,巧克力,
在買茶的同時,也可以想想要又什麼甜點配茶,
聖誕節快到了


經朋友的介紹買了 這款Fortmason Tea, 
標價是£8.75,覺得不算貴,因為這盒子真的太可愛了!
在英國這一年半常常看到很多可愛的鐵盒,在倫敦的舊貨市集或是朋友留下來的雪茄盒
想要開始收集它們但又怕佔位子

他們的官方網站上面還有介紹這茶的來源,哪時候喝比較好,和怎麼保存的方法
非常貼心
This blend of Indian and China teas is also perfumed with the delicate aroma of orange blossom to produce a subtle, floral flavour.

Taste and Strength
Floral and aromatic

When to Drink
Best in the afternoon
Origin
India and China
Brewing Information
Use boiling water and brew for 3-5 minutes depending on taste. With milk or brewed lighter and enjoyed without
Storage advice
Airtight container, preferably a tea caddy.





架上有很多紙盒包裝的茶可供選擇
我卻買了這個銀鐵盒的包裝,主要喜歡它口味以外,還想要喝完時把這個盒子收藏起來。

2011年8月26日 星期五

要去年法國香水學校之前(中)我在英國的嗅覺考試


  
(繼上一篇我寄去給香水學校的助教後 )

我寫信問她可不可以安排我有一個面試的機會,助教很快就回信了,非常幸運的是,我可以在英國面試,由一位現在在英國香芬公司工作的澳洲女生Rebecca,是從格拉斯香水學校畢業的學姊。
Rebecca住在英國的chester,離我住的伯明罕火車車程大約要一個多小時,
和她約好了時間,我一早匆匆搭上火車,腦中還反覆背誦著香料的名字,面試要說什麼才好?

2011年8月19日 星期五

要去年法國香水學校之前(上)猶豫不決的下一步?








(這三個圖片應該可以多多少少代表我的求學過程,莎士比亞大叔,時尚,和?)


分享我從申請學校到真正飛去法國念書的這段準備時期,把這段時期在腦中想過一遍,有很多細節我可以分享,覺得一篇應該會使讀者看到睡著,那就分上中下吧!

由於我 2011年七月正在英國準備畢業論文,還沒去考香水學校之前打算是要留在英國,
申請英國碩士後兩年的簽證,一邊準備論文一邊陸陸續續寄我的履歷,大大小小的工作,實習,聖誕節的短期打工我都寄,快要拿到碩士的我,其實很徬徨,不知道要在這裡英國繼續打拼(工作非常難找),還是回台灣,也不確定自己能不能找到像樣的工作,也背負著出國留學光環的壓力,進退兩難。

2011年4月19日 星期二

the perfume bottles I like


looking through so many perfume bottles and advertising
recently, I realise that perfume bottle affect the opinions on the perfumes. I came up with these bottles I like; I found out that I
like bottles that have dreamy colour or with feminine shapes.
The first one is Balenciaga paris Parfum, the hexagonal shape is spectacular.
I also like the perfume bottlLancome's Tresor in love, love chloe,
Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, PLAY by Comme des Garcons,
and the I like the perfume bottle most is Michael Kors-Very Hollywood; the crystal pink bottle tempt me to own it!






Jeux of Peau-Serge Lute-Eau de bakery





this perfume by Serge Lute that launched in 2011 is a new breakthrough, a scent that smell like butterd toast!

Serge Luten brings childhood memory into the perfume, the delightful memory of a morning delicious buttered toast . 
Serge Luten wanted to recreate the odor of the buttered toast he like when he was a little boy. This is an unusual, oriental woody scent for both men and women. 
I wonder what it taste it this bottle?
from the script of the perfume, it says that it's very sandalwood and milky at the top then reveals a toast accord comes before more sugar and spicy ones.

from Osmoz, it says that,'' Despite its fairly classic, if somewhat enigmatic name, Jeux de peau is no ordinary fragrance. Inspired by Serge Lutens’ childhood memories, the fragrance calls to mind toast dripping with butter. The realm of bread baking is very present: toasted notes, grainy smells, sweet brioche notes and more. True to his avant-garde spirit, and never short on humor, the creator is proposing a totally new kind of gourmand scent. For him or her.''

I was quite surprised that toast could be as a scent and put into perfume.
Sometimes I think perfumers are magicians, they can create every scent people
desire and let us have it.
Now we have bakery scent, ink scent from CDG, what scents can't we have in the future?

Breaking the Rules of Fragrance

There's an article says,'' Breaking the Rules of Fragrance'' on the Magazine ''Stylist''
The subtitle says'' Fed up with florals, women are now turning to musky male fragrances. 
Time to throw away the scent rulebook.''

Now girls and women seen to have a totally different taste, wearing boyfriend's jeans, and the popularity of brogues, tuxedos.
The line between female and male is becoming vague; Also, The archetypes of male and female scents
are being broken down, some people seems now love the innovation of new gender-neutral perfumes. 

Female scents are usually heavy floral notes and man's are wood, musky notes.
Fabrice Penot, co-founder of Le Labo, a brand that produces non-gender specific fragrances said,''
But as a fragrance-wearer, this limits what you can express yourself with.''
The article gave five men's fragrances for women: 
There are Christian Dior, Eau Sauvage, Creed, Green Irish Tweed, Hermes, Terre d'Hermes,
Caron, Pour Un Homme De Caron, Tom Ford, Grey Vetiver.

In the end of article quoted what Tom Ford has said,
Tom Ford, whose globally adored fragrance range is like traditional French perfumes in that it is not 
targeted at one particular gender, said, ''Ultimately, choosing a scent is personal and primal and should be
decided not by gender but by inhaling and asking, does it smell good to me?''



Voyage d’Hermes


























Created by Jean-Claude Ellena. Hermes launched Voyage d’Hermes in 2010.
This is a unisex perfume that takes you to another place. The advertising is quite interesting, there are no human in it, and just a horse and a dove represent the freedom of travelling. The perfume is both feminine and masculine which is described as woody, fresh and musky.


The bottle design is spectacular, classic and subtly modern high teck. It's design as 
for people to take it to travel; a convenient design.


The advertising video shows a bird flying towards the horse and then running in the sea, to the canyon, the dove represents a woman with hands showing and the horse represent the back of a man. 
This advertising shows freedom and the spirit of unisex perfume.


Looking at so many perfume advertising, this one by Hermes is my favorite compared to other.

2011年4月18日 星期一

Comme des Garcons 3 Eau de Toilette


Notes: Basil, mandarin, black currant, magnolia, everlasting flower,
angelica, Lebanese cedar, birch essence, sandalwood.
Finally we got CDG flower perfume, but now it is actually an imaginary flower scent, a flower people dream of and people want to be. It is described as rosy, incandescent, electric, and opalescent.
Inspired by the Sci-Fi, which lives up to a dream, CDG3 is like an aroma that is never imagined or seen flower in another planet, the top and middle notes of black rose oxide, mace, angelica and basil emerge from the base notes of cedar, birch and sandalwood, to a fresh, mysterious, powdery greenness. A blend of modern andorganic, seething and subtle, CDG captures all human’s dreams may be: pure, various possibilities.


The concepts of CDG's perfumes are always whimsy and extraordinary. For Comme des Garcons 3, the transparent bottle which could stand up is like a surprise. We couldn't expect what smell it would be in CDG's perfume.

2011年4月11日 星期一

Comme des Garcons 2 Eau de Parfum












Comme des Garcons has created its own concept, which is quite unique and unconventional. Unlike other brands that have a long history in perfumery, Comme des Garcons’ released its first perfume in 1994; launched a line of unisex fragrances, which are stunning just like their clothes.


This “2” perfume by Comme des Garcons is quite industrialized; with Japanese calligraphy ink in this perfume. "Comme des Garçons 2 plays with complements and contrasts, with reflection and opacity...with mirror and brilliance, with light and shadow, with earth and the energy of the sun.

“2” is based on two olfactive categories: technological, which contains notes of ink and new aldehydes, and natural, which comprises incense, magnolia, patchouli, cedarwood, amber and labdanum. “The perfume is all about contrasts and compliments.

I have never smell "2 Eau de Parfum" of Comme des Garcons, but the concept gives me a lot 
of imagination of the scent.  I am quite familiar to the scent of Calligraphy because students in Taiwan have to learn it in primary school. After knowing the ink was put into "2 Eau de Parfum", I was quite curious is it good as ingredient for perfume?


2011年3月30日 星期三

Six Scents Fragrance-Diagonal and Teen Spirit


Recently I wrote about Six scents-series one, within the six perfumes, I prefer the concepts and the packaging designs of the fourth and the sixth one. 
To be honest, I haven't smell one of them. I just did the research about their design concepts. However, 
It is very important for perfume companies using whether packaging designs, names, and concepts to attractive consumers. 

Diagoanl was designed by Gareth Pugh and perfumer Emillie Coppermann. “Contrast, ambiguity, duality. Gareth Pugh said about his style: “it’s a struggle between lightness and darkness;” this is what I tried to translate in this perfume. The contrast between different raw materials, masculine and feminine, rough and smooth, dark and light, fresh and sensual.” With notes of dill, black pepper, nutmeg, palissander, black tea, amyris, white amber and musk.(Six scents)




Fragrance 6: Teen Spirit by Preen. According to perfumer Mark Buxton, “The idea we had with Preen, was to capture an English summer garden after the rain – light, natural, floral, fresh, but not sweet. Its sparkling top note, made of calabrain bergamot and a unique seashore accord is wrapped with magnolia and Turkish rose. The tingling spicy scent of red pepper sustained by hazelnut leaf and rhubarb give the fragrance its natural depth. Finally, a touch of violet wood for the long-lastingness and pleasurable feeling.” With hazelnut leaf, rhubarb, bergamot, seashore accord, red pepper berry, rose, magnolia, violet wood, sandalwood and musk.(six scents) 







Six Scents-Series one















The six scents were created by a group of designers and perfumers; these limited edition launched
as art works, based on genuine emotions and inspirations.
This collaboration between professional perfumers and creative designers are quite new.
Two artists both use their concepts and strength to create Six Scents series one.

 The group plans to launch six new fragrances every year with a percentage of the proceeds going to charity.


Six Scents Parfums Co-Founder & Collection Curator Joseph Quartana said, 

“We choose the rising stars of the fashion industry who will one day be big enough to have their own fragrance but who are too small to have it just yet. So we steal from the future and offer it now.”

It's a interesting idea that launches perfume as the first step to fashion industry.  Everyone wants
a unique perfume which is close to life and emotions.
The packaging designs and perfume concepts are close together,  catching the small parts and feelings in life.

there are six bottles
Fragrance 1: Urban Tropicalia by  Alexandre Herchcovitch and Joachim Correl
Fragrance 2: Wicken 3000 ~ by Bernhard Willhelm and perfumer Lucas Sieuzac
Fragrance 3: The Spirit of Wood by Cosmic Wonder Light Source and perfumer Philippe Paparella-Paris
Fragrance 4: Diagonal by Gareth Pugh and  perfumer Emilie Coppermann
Fragrance 5: Illicit Sex ~ by Jeremy Scott and perfumer Philippe Roques
Fragrance 6: Teen Spirit by Preen and perfumer Mark Buxton


Paul Smith-Story



















Paul Smith Story Eau de Toilette was launched in 2006. 

The fragrance was created by perfumer Nathalie Gracia Cetto, and features Haitian vetiver along with grapefruit, bergamot, green ivy, jasmine, green rose, musks, mineral amber and cedarwood. 





One of my friends said Paul Smith Story 100 ml was on sale, which costed only £15.
She said the perfume name is story from Paul Smith and she wanted to buy it as a 
gift for her brother.
I was curious by the name: Story. It's a simple name but filled with implications and meanings.
Since I have to name perfumes, I began to search for how perfumers or perfume companies 
dominate perfumes to attract consumers. In my opinions, Story is a noticeable name without abstract concepts. 



Story was said to be inspired by Smith's passion for books:
“I love the distinctive smell of antique books–of ageing paper and leather, the essence of time gone by, the imprint of wisdom and experience,” he commented. “The pristine scent of fresh print, so cleanly intoxicating when you know you're the first person ever to open that book.” (via cosmeticsint, 9/8/2006)








2011年3月23日 星期三

How to choose your own perfume(2)




1.   Weather: Weather is the essential consideration when choosing a perfume. A perfume used in different places will have different smell. A perfume teacher called Laurence said Chanel No. 5 is her favorite one. She will dub it every day when she goes out in France. However, she went to Tokyo for traveling with Chanel No.5 on her as usual, she found out the smell was not as attractive as in France. The humid weather in Asia is quite different from the dry and cold continent.
      As a result, weather should be put into consideration when choosing a perfume.

2.   Your own taste: some young girls would prefer floral, fruity scents, or sweet smell such as chocolate, caramel. Narrow down the range and delete what you don’t like. For example, if you don’t like fruity. You can save more time on looking for other perfumes that you have interest in.


    3.    Perfume Notes:Search for the perfume description and ingredient, 
        including the top notes, middle notes   and base notes. This is just a consideration. 
        the best way is to look at the description first and smell it afterwards.



   4. Wear suitable perfumes to different occasions: some people would 
     just use one perfume to all kinds of occasions. However, some strong-smelled 
     perfume is not suitable for working.  for examples,  wear Tommy girl when 
     going  picnicking, wear Coco Mademosielle when going to dance at clubs.


   5. What impression you want to show: Clothes is the first code that you can 
    impress people, then it's your behavior. But perfume is the subconscious impression 
    to others.  you can decide what feelings you want to express like sweet, professional,
    or cool.


  6. Bottle- packaging and bottle are the fastest way to attract consumer.  
    Some people would want to collect perfume bottles. 
    If you like the perfume bottle as well as the bottle. Don't think twice, buy it!!!

2011年3月21日 星期一

How to choose your own perfume(1)

There are 300 hundred kinds of perfumes being launched every year. People are attracted by their advertisement at first glance and then taste them to see whether they like them or not.

How to choose your own perfume seems like a difficult challenge. Everyone has different mood

I think I am a perfume beginner. Whenever I walked into the perfume section of department store, I don’t know where to start; so I ended up wasting a lot of time taste them one by one.

Since my sister is now a perfumer now. I asked her for some tips about choosing my suitable perfume.

She said everyone who chooses perfume at beginning may experience the so called’’ exploration period’’. Some people would just choose perfumes by advertisement or perfume sellers, it’s a risk to do that because they may regret after they bought it.

Some other people will choose classic perfumes such as Chanel 5, Shalimar, Opium, L’air du Temp. That is a good way but these classics are not always suitable for everyone, neither being used every day. Or you can choose some perfumes that will definitely be accepted by public; almost everyone gave good comments on them. For example, CK one, L'eau d'issey.

There are 6 tips that my sister told me.

2011年3月20日 星期日

The scent I hate, the bottle I like


Chloe Eau de Parfum by Chloe was launched in 2008.
I really like the bottle that created by Patrick Veillet; he gave the perfume a romantic image.
The black and white ad campaign also caught my eyes when reading magazines. 


Top Notes

I was exited to smell Chloe Eau de Parfum, but this let me down; it is not outstanding like the bottle.


Firstly, I smelled rose which was very artificial and pungent, the smell could not disappear 
even it was over 24 hours. I tried to wash it away but I couldn't. It is a nightmare that 
wear the perfume you don't like for whole day and couldn't get rid of it.
Although I don't like this scent, one of my friends wear it everyday.
Now I believe perfume is very subjective. Everyone has different taste on perfumes, 
one of my friends loves the perfume very much. She even bought chloe Eau de Toilette Spray.
All I want to do is asking my friend to give the bottle when she finish the Chloe Eau de Parfum.

2011年3月17日 星期四

Wysteria Lane-After the rain




















"After the rain" is the perfume I found in the Wysteria Lane.
Wysteria Lane is a home and gifts boutique for ladyies located in Pavilions.
When I walked into Wysteria Lane, there were so many things that would made girls want to spend all
off their money.  Candles, bath soaps and heart-shaped soaps, hand balm, decoration for home,
I could even find clothes and shoes there.
Wysteria Lane is created for a sweet home filled with lovely stuff.
On the website, they said,'' Created with ladies in mind, we have crammed each page full of fabulous products and gift ideas for those who love to cook, decorate and design their homes.''

I dubbed the perfume in my wrist. The first smell was a strong musk; the aroma was very natural, like smell transpire from human body.

The shop assistant told me the perfume ingredients are based in Scotland Arran Aromatics, where to be
known as quite a lot about rain there. the website said, "we can just imagine them scurrying about ‘after the rain’, collecting rose petals, musk, floral citrus, lime, lavender and juniper from the Scottish woods to create this delicious aroma."

This lovely name gave me a lot of imagination. like walking in the sunning fresh day, all plants and flowers  are flashing because they have been washed by rain.






2011年3月16日 星期三

Penhaligon's Lily of the Valley

Visiting perfume stores is like treasure hunting. I can always find something new scents and surprises
in different perfume stores. Although perfume is trasparent liquid, as the scents are being dabbed on wrists,their power are strong enough to let me have a lot of images in my head, or even have the desire to describe a lot of feelings of the perfumes.

Before knowing Penhaligon's, I only knew Dior, Chanel, or D&G these brands.
after I been the Penhaligon's store in London. I was kind of fall in love with this brand.
Penhaligon's was founded by William Henry Penhaligon in 1860. He was the court Barber to the Queen Victoria.
Last month I went to the Penhaligon's in Covent Garden. The decoration of the store is quite classic, which related to its splendid history in the Victoria times.  All perfumes in the store located on the wood shelves, there are stripes in front of every perfume.













The smell of Lily of the Valley to was joyful, filled with flowery smell, very warm and last for a long time.
I love the elegant packaging, a box with a lily of the valley, echo the same name of this perfume, classy and simple.












Lily of the Valley Notes:
Bergamot, Lemon and Geranium, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Ylang Ylang and Jasmine, Oakmoss and Sandalwood




To be honest, the bottle of Lily of the Valley is not my favorite one among Penhaligon's perfumes.
I prefer Ellenisia Eau de Parfum and the Bluebell  Eau de Toilette bottles
these two perfumes both with signature Penhaligon’s fragrance on the bottle is to William Penhaligon's original design: clear glass with distinctive ribbons wrapped top.



 Compare the smells of these three. I still like the smell of Lily of the Valley.
I decided to buy the favorite scent I like instead of the favorite bottle design because I
have to wear it everyday,not bring the bottle everyday.








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目前在南法的香水小城學習如何調香,發現香水的神祕,香水的美好,以及香水帶給人的快樂。